Camogli, Liguria
From the colorful fishing villages of the Cinque Terre to the chic Portofino, Liguria has long attracted tourists. Yet venture west from Portofino and you’ll find an altogether more authentic fishing village, devoid of designer boutiques and billionaire yachts. Dreamy Camogli features a cluster of skinny, brightly painted houses overlooking a surf beach. On weekends, the Genoese escape there for their dose of seaside pleasure. The promenade along the bay has unpretentious restaurants and bars leading to the baroque cathedral perched in the rock. Explore the narrow, stacked streets of Camogli, feast on seafood pasta at Ostaia da ö Sigù, then hike or take a ferry to San Fruttuoso whose 10th-century abbey overlooks an idyllic cove. With sea views from all rooms, the new Sublimis Boutique Hotel has double rooms from £160, B&B (hotelsublimiscamogli.it).
Santa Maria di Castellabate, Salerno, Campania
Perfect for families, the Blue Flag beaches of Santa Maria di Castellabate are where Neapolitans go to escape the summer heat of their city. You’ll barely hear another English voice here – instead, the evening passeggiata around Piazza Lucia is pure Fellini: Italian mums comparing babies, old men licking ice cream, children enjoying Punch and Judy while handsome priests in cassocks walk through the crowd. Given its proximity to the Amalfi Coast, this charming resort stays surprisingly off the radar. Flop on the beaches, stroll over an Aperol spritz at sunset at Bar L’Ancora, climb to the top of the Castellabate hill or visit the crowd-free town of Paestum. The choices are many. Offering both sea view rooms and family rooms, the centrally located Pepi B&B has double rooms from £81 (pepi-bb.santa-maria-di-castellabate.hotels-in-it.com).
Lake Orta
George and Amal Clooney may have given Lake Como some extra sparkle, but there are calmer lakes that feature similar levels of beauty. Lake Orta near Maggiore may be small, but offers walking routes for pilgrims and an unspoilt medieval lakeside town at Orta San Giulio. Take in beautiful lake views from the 15th-century Santa Maria Assunta, explore its narrow cobbled streets, relax in the cafe-lined square, then cross by ferry to San Giulio Island. This idyllic cluster in the middle of the lake of dreamy palaces and secret gardens contains a Romanesque basilica – and, guaranteeing peace, a ‘path of silence and meditation’ promenade encircling the island. Just 50 meters from the shore of Lake Orta, Locanda Orta offers double rooms from £85, B&B (locandaorta.com).
L’Aquila, Abruzzo
Nestled in a valley surrounded by the peaks of the Grand Sasso and Velino-Sirente mountain ranges, L’Aquila is an ideal base for exploring the Abruzzo region. It’s relaxed and laid back, thanks to a thriving student population, combining a Renaissance core of baroque palaces, squares and churches – all easily navigable on foot. The cafe-lined Piazza del Duomo is home to a daily market and there’s plenty of choice for a high-caliber osteria, serving regional cuisine, as well as lively nightclubs. Staying in L’Aquila also provides easy access to the hiking and biking trails of the spectacular Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso. In the heart of the centro storico, Palazzo dei Pavoni offers antique-filled double rooms from £93, B&B (palazzodeipavoni.it).
Asolo, Veneto
Poet Robert Browning lived here, as did explorer Freya Stark; The fun-loving, exiled Queen Caterina of Cyprus held court in Asolo in the 16th century, attracting some of the best scholars of the time. This idyllic hilltop town encapsulates Italy at its best: delicate loggias shading booksellers, narrow streets filled with authentic food shops, and poetic views of cypress hills, olive groves and prosecco vineyards. Its social heart, initiated in the 17th century, is the Caffe Centrale – a perfect place for people-watching and ideal also for gazing at those grand Venetian townhouses painted in earthy washes. The centrally located Hotel Asolo has stylish double rooms from £85, B&B (hotel-asolo.com).
Island hopping in the lagoon, Venice
If you’re overwhelmed by Venice’s crowds, escape to its Lido and spend a weekend cycling to nearby islands, using ferries (bicycle in tow) and wheels, to lagoon-fringed Chioggia. Not only do you get fantastic views of the domes and spiers of Venice, but you also have the opportunity to explore lesser-known islands such as Malamocco. Enjoy the quiet lanes and painted fishermen’s houses here, then stop on Pellestrina – a skinny island with a daily scene of fishermen sorting out schools of mussels. Stop for spider crab spaghetti at Da Celeste on its pontoon terrace, then continue to Chioggia. Peaceful, easy and crowd-free pedaling guaranteed. Villa Mabapa offers free and double bike hire from £83, B&B (villamabapa.com).
Urbino, Marche
Despite being Raphael’s birthplace, Urbino remains relatively unknown; so, too, much of the rugged Marche region. Beautiful gray-stoned Urbino may be a vision of Renaissance perfection, but it’s not stuck in the past. There’s a lively student vibe here, and some excellent slow-food restaurants and lively bars. Climb its steep cobbled streets to the half-ruined Rocca fortress for views of the surrounding countryside; Enter the Palazzo Ducale and don’t miss the Casa Natale di Raffaelo for a glimpse into the childhood of artist Raphael. Then, venture further afield to the magnificent walled towns of Montegridolfo, Gradara, San Leo and Pennabilli. Set in a former seminary in the historic centre, Albergo Raffaello offers double rooms from £87, B&B (albergoraffaelo.com).
Salina, Aeolian Islands, Sicily
Of the seven islands in the volcanic Aeolian chain of Sicily, Salina is by far the most bucolic. Its twin peaks shade the fertile central plain of Valdichiesa. The vines for Malvasia sweet wine grow here in abundance along with capers – and the acacia trees lay a direct route to Pollara, the pristine fishing village where Il Postino was filmed. Staying on Salina allows you to take a ferry to the other islands, spend days volcanically hiking on Monte Fossa delle Felici for dreamy views of the archipelago, or simply relax alongside Sicilians in holidays in the bustling port town of Rinella. With panoramic views over Stromboli and Panarea, Le Sette Valle da Riccardo offers double rooms from £65, B&B (lesettevele.it).
Santa Maria di Leuca, Apulia
At the southern end of the Salento peninsula, where the Adriatic meets the Ionian Sea, Santa Maria di Leuca is extremely popular with Italians – but remains unknown to many foreign tourists. Its group of whitewashed buildings and Art Nouveau villas culminate in an impressive Roman basilica above the harbour. In August, attend the parade of the reliquary of the Blessed Virgin, installed on a flotilla offshore. Fireworks and a full party follow. You can also cycle along ancient pilgrimage trails, boat around the cave-carved coast, feast on fabulous seafood and discover family-friendly sandy beaches that stretch all the way to Felloniche, Posto Vecchio and Pescoluse. Just 500 meters from the beach, Il Pappagallo offers double rooms from £47, B&B (ilpapappagallo.net).
Castiglione della Pescaia, Tuscany
Part hill town, part fishing village, Castiglione della Pescaia is pure Tuscany off the beaten track. This gem of a coastal town, with its sturdy houses with green shutters and steep cobbled streets leading down to a small port, epitomizes the lesser-known Maremma region of Tuscany. After exploring the city, join the locals on bustling Via Camaiori where, at happy hour, Caffe Piazzetta does a quick trade of Aperol spritz. Then, venture further into the flamingo-studded wetlands of the Diaccia Botrona Nature Reserve, or inland to the little-known peak of Massa Marittima. This atmospheric town has a medieval fresco of the fertility tree. Look closely and you will discover outrageous phallic details. Near the sea, Pensione La Scogliera offers single double rooms from £63, B&B (scogliera.com).
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